CHIP power supply problem

@syed [quote=“Syed, post:20, topic:2665”]
I’ve done this three times; same result each time (sizzle and smoke).
[/quote]

See … if you let the smoke out, it doesn’t work anymore :slight_smile: Sometimes there are other components compressed inside too… As you know the CHIP has “sizzle”, but some things have “pop”, or even “bang!”, in various combinations. Other devices have “flash”, or “flame”, and the occasional piece of black plastic that is spring-loaded and aimed to “just miss your head” as it flies out at great speed. Other than the actual smoke that is inside, the other internal component that is common to all is “that electrical smell”.
It is a mystery to me how they get all of that inside those little black cases!

I was going to try the flash update today. As I powered up the CHIP, I only go the power led and a soild “status” led. I figured it needed the SDR and LNA for the software to boot. Connected everything including the patch and got the same results. Tried all configurations and no wi-fi has showed up. I dont have a spider cable for video, so I’m not sure whats going on. Can not connect connect to it (ie. no wifi from CHIP)… Did it die after only five hours of operation

If you don’t see the flashing light at start up, then something went wrong. Can you try reflashing?

Never flashed it. Can I flash it if it is “Bricked”?

Sometimes there are problems with the NAND, but for the most part, it’s not possible to brick a CHIP. You can always just reflash it if something goes wrong. We regularly reflash non-functional installs.

Tried flashing today. VM and extensions installed ok. Download image ok. Loaded image into VM ok. Ran the flash and VM connected. Got Chip in FEL mode OK. Got Message 00 Exciuting. got message 03 uploading 1664? the got a batch usb error time out. The flash restarted but never go an OK on FEL mode. Swapped usb cables four times, re down loaded image twice and cleared files. CHIP will not take the flash. And the jumpers is correct. Any Ideas?

Hardware issue. What is your order number?

Date of Order 12/18/2016
S306353847301626
Carl F. Pajak
Wasilla, AK, USA 99654

Received my replacement CHIP yesterday. Thank you for your support! Got it connected and powered up. Got a good lock (3.20db) and receiving packets. Running a two week burn in test then of to the local high school science class.

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Is it normal to have to reset the CHIP after 48 hours of operation? I have it on a dedicated powersupply, ie ac mains to USB power supply 5v dc @ 3.1 amps. After about 36-48 hours it locks up. WiFi is shown but can not connect. After reset I find I have not received any packet for that time. Is there a confiig setting I missed some were? It dose not feel overly warm, but both status lights are solid.

This is definitely not normal.

Hi @Carl_Pajak. I have the same problem, with the CHIP dropping off after a time between 2-7 days. Both lights remain on, but I am unable to connect to the CHIP via Wifi, and it doesn’t seem to be downloading any packets. The only way to reset it is to power off, then power back on. @Syed, do you track the connections in http://status.outernet.is/ as my receiver is the one in Australia. It is normally green for a few days, then goes orange for a day, then drops off. That may show you how long I typically have for uptime.

It might be the temperature, but I’m not sure. The ambient temperature is only about 20C here during the day. The receiver is in a large plastic box, out of the sunlight. I have tried a number of power supplies and USB cables, and the ones I use at the moment seem to make it boot OK.

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uptime
17:47:18 up 24 days, 22:53, load average: 1.20, 1.01, 0.92

it was only reset to re-flash it with the latest software

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@rc1000 No, I don’t review that data. It is strange that you are having this problem. My receiver has been through freezing and downpours. It is in a black plastic case, so I’m sure it has gotten above 30C. It could, however, simply be related to manufacturing inconsistencies in the CHIPs.

I don’t know if this will be helpful to @rc1000 but I did have a similar problem a few months ago. I corrected it by using the shortest possible (quick charge type) USB cable between my USB wall wart and my Lantern/CHIP. Instead of a 6 foot cable I now use an expensive quick charge short Belkin cable.

I had to extend my ac power by extension cord to reach my Lantern’s location due to the shorter USB cable. Ken

@kenbarbi, thanks for the tip. I have changed the cable, trying a few different ones today (ranging from a 10 cm Belkin cable to a 1 metre cable. I have added an extension cord to bring power to the CHIP. I have settled on a 1 metre cable and a new plastic box. It seems stable at the moment, with SNR of about 8 dB. I’ll let it run and see how long it goes for.