I don’t want to use either microusb jacks on board for 5 volt power In. Where on board are proper 5 volt and ground pins closest to either microusb jacks? A block diagram of the board would really help.
same situation for me, I HATE micro-USB connectors used for power… Anyway, I got it done couple of weeks ago, after advice from the team…
…with the board oriented with 5x USB connectors side UP…
- 5v POSITIVE goes to JP1 (right behind OTG USB connector) either pads, round or square, as the pads are connected together…
- 5v NEGATIVE to the LiPo-BATT connector pads (top LH corner, near SW-PWR switch) pin 2, round, NOT pin 1 SQUARE! Pin 2 is also connected to the board ground, you can check that for continuity, zero ohms, with the SMAs bodies and RF shield.
For the time being, it works well for me with just two square pins soldered in place, later I’ll put a “proper” dc connector somewhere on the board.
…earlier discussion with the team (Abhishek) here…
I found this interesting. Board connected normally using micro USB connector.
Using DVM, I see 4.72 volts at the 2 test points you mention. Also, I have another DVM right on the source Li battery. It shows 5.17 volts. Now, I find a hole on board marked 5V. It’s behind the the double lever switch. I use my DVM and measure 5.17 also. I’m using the ground you mention. So, do you think this might be the spot to feed 5 volts to the board and not the JP1 pin?
Maybe I should power off and look for 0 ohms from the microUSB connector and the 2 test points? Need to use a sewing needle!
UPDATE Looks like you are correct! JP1, either pin has continunity to the 5 volt pin of the micro USB connector. The round hole near the power switch labelled 2 has continunity to the ground pin of the microUSBconnector. The 5.17 volts I see at the hole marked 5V and other places is probably after a boost circuit. Don’t think the board would like 4.72 volts all over it. Thanks Imantuno and Zoltan
agreed with your UPDATE and I must say I wouldn’t stuff around with other solutions… JP1 is/can be used to measure the current drawn by the board. You have to cut the track between the two pins and connect an ammeter. When done you put a jumper on the pins and reestablish the 5v downstream of the microUSB to the rest of the board…
The 2-pin connector (CHG-IN) below the second switch (SW-FACTORY) is the recommended GND point (round pin) BUT I used pin 2 of LIPO-BAT because I wanted to have my own GND pin bent down at 90deg so the wire runs parallel to the board.
…and some very good stuff on the DC in here (reply #4 by Chris) if you had not seen it already…
I found 2 right angle pins. Used 1 double at JP1 for +5. Used the other double at LIPO-BAT for ground (round hole). Today I just added a 10 watt solar panel, controller, 7 amp 12 volt lead acid battery, and 3 amp buck converter to get 12 volts down to 5 for the board. Seems to work good. I’ll know for sure tomorrow morning or in a few full days and nights.